As to independence, it wasn't hard to get an opinion out of the gentleman. As he drove us south for a day of hiking and exploring in the Motobo Hills National Park. The highlight of which were the ancient Khami Ruins, second only the Great Zimbabwe ruins several hundred miles to the east and not on our itinerary. I lamented not get to see them and he quipped, "Great Zimbabwe ruins?! Hah! Just look around around you, mate--THIS IS the GREAT Zimbabwe ruins."
We drove on the dust covered road past the carcass of a public bus that had been stripped of everything but the dust covered frame. From time to time we passed locals walking along the side of the road, large bundles balanced on their heads. There were few cars, and an occasional truck, often with riders piled into the open back. Zimbabwe was one year shy of celebrating its tenth anniversary and the transition had yet to even come close to delivering the prosperity that it's leader, Robert Mugabe, had promised. Bulawayo was like a forgotten city in the wild west of a nascent America.
Once we arrived at the park we passed through the gates and then on toward the Khami Ruins. Along the way we saw many examples of the Kopje Rock formations (stacked boulders), some larger than automobiles arranged in random spots across the shrub and brush covered land. Some were famous, like the "Horse Rider".
At some point we pulled over and got out of the jeep. From here on out we were in the hands of the older gentlemen. Along a pathway where we encountered no other person, we made out way through the dry scrub bushes. Then suddenly, he stopped us. Without speaking, he directed our gaze through the vegetation. There she was, a Southern White Rhinoceros gently grazing. It wasn't long before we also saw her calf. We weren't 50 yards away from them. As we whispered back and forth, she rotated her ears like radar discs to point them in our direction. After a moment she determined we were not a threat. It was obviously a moment that I have never forgotten.
Further down this trail and we were at the Khami Ruins. Again, nobody else in sight. As we explored the remains of this 15th century city now long abandoned we realized that we weren't actually alone. Our presence had summoned up the curiosity of a group of Chacma Baboons. They started popping up on the tops of distant walls. Our guide was well aware of the mischief and danger wild Baboons can inflicts and so he called our visit off and calmly we returned to the jeep.
From here he drove us to a separate area of the park (which is huge: 1,200 sq. miles). He parked us again at the start of a trail and off we went on another hike. This one was more vertical, but not strenuous and before long we were reaching the crest of large mound that was by and large one massive granite boulder--though "boulder" does it no justice. The views were spectacular and in the distance across this rock surface we could see a squat tower-like structure. As we approached it, we also discovered a large marker ensconced to the surface of the rock formation. It was the grave of Cecil Rhodes! The monument is an additional commemoration for the man.
You can imagine just how controversial this site is given Rhodes role in the conquest and exploitation of native peoples in order to establish the colonies of Northern (Zambia) and Southern (Zimbabwe) Rhodesia. Then it was just a completely unexpected surprise and a chance to have some semblance of connection to one of the most consequential European colonizers in the history of Africa. And I get the negative implications. But the man's dead. He can evolve. Only we have that privilege.
Finally, we returned to Bulawayo, had a modest meal with our hosts and slept soundly.
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