Smithsonian National Zoo: American Trail

As far back as the late 1800's when the National Zoo set up shop at its current location, a pathway was established along the western flank of the park.  The main pathway was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, the father of Urban communal landscape design with nothing short of Central Park in New York City on the top of his resume!  President Grover Cleveland signed the law establishing a "National Zoological Park" in Washington, DC to be located on 163 acres along a steeply sloping ridge above an oxbow curve on Rock Creek.  While the growing city bloomed on the plateau above, Frederick and his crew set about laying the foundation for the zoo. 

1910 Map of the National Zoo
from the National Archives

Zooming in on "Beaver Valley": 10 = Wolves, 8 = Bears,
9 = Sea Lions, and 13 = Beavers

The turn around was stunning, and less than two years later the initial thoroughfare of the zoo opened to the public in 1891.  Just west of the main promenade lay an even steeper slice down the backside of the hillside formed by a smaller creek, more like a seasonal run.  Paths were added and this area was christened Beaver Valley.  The year was 1898.  By 1910, it was well peppered with cages and enclosures of various sizes--none large by today's standards, and guests could encounter a range of North American fauna their over the years and decades that followed.  The 1910 map of the park indicates Bears, Wolves, Beavers and Sea Lions; and descriptions from other sources indicate that Elk, Puma, Bobcats, Prairie Dogs, a range of raptors, North American River Otters, and such called the place home. 

As time wore on, incremental changes were made mostly to repair existing infrastructure.  In the 1930 WPA era the area noted as home to wolves was replaced by a series of more naturalistic habitats with faux stone-like concrete walls and "cave" entrances to off-view holding areas, and moats to ensure the public could see the animals without bars.  An innovation first introduced in Hamburg, Germany in 1880's.  The wolves were replaced with Bears and Puma.  in 1976! what a long time to wait, a functional storm water system was retrofitted into the valley.  And just over 30 later, the Zoo green-lighted an ambitious redesign of the entire valley from just north of the WPA habitats to the very top which leads to a plaza on the edge of the Asian Elephant's largest yard.

The Price tag was an astonishing $41,000,000.00 and the timeline was 5 years.  The result, and they're still making up-grades on some of the smaller habitats; the largest and most amazing Sea Lion/Seal habitat I've ever seen.  The main tank with wave action mechanisms holds over 300,000 gallons of water, and the adjoining habitat holds about 180,000 gallons.  Generous natural water features enhance both the Beaver and North American Otter habitats.  An expanded woodland habitat is home to wolves again.  And there are a range of iconic fowl from Ravens, American Bald Eagles to Owls and lesser raptors with the inhabitants changing over time depending upon conservation needs and opportunities.

Perhaps the most interesting aspect is the fact that the entire renovation was built to LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) standards; state-of-the-art materials and functions that account for everything from sustainably sourced elements to embedded recycling and reusable practices.  Also, in optimizing the pathway they were able to transform a crazy incline into a more manageable meander.

CALIFORNIA SEA LIONS & GRAY SEALS

The first thing you encounter is a "cave".  Inside you view the California Sea Lions from underwater.  Above is an amphitheater from which you can experience Keeper Talks. 

To see them "fly" through the water you need only be patient and quick.

Quick because they are in constant zoomies modality.

As fate and timing would have it, three keepers were engaged in a chat with lots of amazing demonstrations.

The grandstand was full, so I retreated to the far end of the habitat were there is an underwater viewing area.

Patient...

...and, Quick!

In the adjacent habitat, the Gray Seals were soaking up the rays.

And demonstrating a little tender nuzzle to nuzzle communications.

BEAVERS & NORTH AMERICAN RIVER OTTERS

The Beaver habitat is also the largest I've ever seen at a zoo.  It consists of two pools with a faux dam in between.  

Initially you are at the lower pool, but you can walk up and around to the backside for a wonderful view of the upper pool.  And that's where the Beaver was today!

A little further along that upper path and you're looking down into the North American Otter habitat.  Generous of land area, but less so of aquatic.  It's not horrible, but no North American Otter habitat I've ever seen compares to the one at the Maryland Zoo.  I miss it.

The pair were both out and very active doing laps in the pool and investigating their dry land digs.  

Smithsonian National Zoo: Andean Spectacled Bears

 Bears are wonderful creatures.  Did you know that there are only 8 definitive species of Bear?  The Giant Panda is considered the furthest away from the median. The proto-species in the center belong to Polar Bears and Brown Bears.  The Andean Spectacled Bear is the next furthest out from the center after Giant Pandas.  Although it shares a characteristic with the American Black Bear, which sits next to the middle pairing.  Andean Bears are also excellent tree climbers!  Unlike American Black Bears, they take it to an extreme.  They actually build platforms up in trees for the purposes of eating and sleeping.  

Like all bears, they're curious and intelligent, and like most bears they're not aggressive.  However, in the wild they are Vulnerable to extinction thanks to their one and only predator: man.

The National Zoo has a very successful history of breeding with this species as does one of my favorite little zoos in Salisbury, Maryland; where they are currently creating a new $6,000,000 habitat to continue their participation in the Andean Spectacled Bear SSP with the AZA.  So excited for the Salisbury Zoo's initiative for this species.

At the National Zoo now are two new animals, a male and a female that are in the process of becoming acquainted.  There was a keeper present to offer information and answer questions.  I remember that the previous female, Brienne, was transferred to the Nashville Zoo for her "retirement" from the SSP program.  I can't recall what he said about the male.  I wish I had taken notes and written down their names.  I know the female is young.  The most recent incumbents were Quito and Brienne who birthed a pair of males, Ian and Sean in the autumn of 2022. 

On this very warm summer morning, the two new bears were out in adjoining WPA era habitats.  The only thing I wish they would do is add some faux tree climbing apparatus to give the bears an opportunity to hang out above the ground.

When you leave Amazonia the pathway leads directly to a pair of  circa 1930's habitats which are home to the zoo's Andean Bears.  It feels very out of the way, but it is home to a successful Species Survival Program breeding project with 4 cubs having been born since 2019.

The new Female Andean Spectacled Bear.

She is beautiful with the double cream colored "bat wing" markings on her brow.  The actual markings on the face of these bears act like finger prints for humans--every one is unique.

The male was hanging out next door.  He was clearly much larger than the female.

With the Keeper chat over, and the promise of treats gone, he quickly made up his mind to return to the quiet and cooler temps of his below habitat "cave".  I was very happy to be able to see and capture images of both.  Perhaps in another year, there will be some cubs to come and see.

Smithsonian National Zoo: Amazonia, Part 3 (Amphibian Conservation Lab)

 When you depart the interactive Amazon Rain-forest, you enter into a sort of lobby that leads you to the Amphibian Conservation Lab.  The vibe is pure Rain-forest Colonial Finca with high ceiling fans and stucco archways built off of solid square columns, and walls painted in soft by warm shades of yellow.  Besides the habitats full of Frogs and Toads and Newts and Salamanders, there are viewable "lab" areas with many other tanks and spaces for specialists to conduct research--although I don't think anything actually occurs there.   All around the spaces are interesting artifacts set up in curiosity cabinets, and on shelves and attached to the walls.  Everything from a beautifully taxidermied Jaguar to a Lepidopterist's field notebook and collection of Butterfly specimens in a glass faced box.  There's even an alcove with tanks that feature endangered Corals.  

Dyeing Poison Dart Frog

Cranwell's Horned Frog

Eastern Red-Spotted Newt

Gray Tree Frog (top)

and

Fowler's Toad (bottom)

Fowler's Toad

Panamanian Golden Poison Dart Frog

Blessed Poison Dart Frog

Brazilian Poison Dart Frog

A Lepadopetrist's Curiosity Cabinet.  

The Endangered Corals Alcove.

Smithsonian National Zoo: Amazonia, Part 2 (the Rainforest Level)

 Climb the stairs or ride the elevator up to the main level and you enter a magical world.  Welcome to the Amazon.  Pathways guide you through and around tropical trees while a river flows always to the right. The variety and range of plants is fascinating.  The only disappointing aspect on this visit was the lack of variety in the birds.  I spent a lot of time there and only encountered three species.  The aforementioned Roseate Spoonbill, a quartet of Scarlet Ibis and a pair of Yellow-Rumped Cacique.  And still, sometimes less is more.  I really had time to watch these birds.  Some came surprisingly close.  

The Roseate Spoonbill came out of nowhere to plop itself in the middle of the pathway, surrounded by about a dozen lucky visitors, and he just strode about!  No one touched him--I was very impressed by my fellow guests' restraint.  However, there were some amazing photos taken!

The pair of Yellow-Rumped Cacique.

Roseate Spoonbill

Scarlet Ibis

Smithsonian National Zoo: Amazonia, Part 1 (the Ground Floor)

 When you choose to make the ascent up the hill from the base of the Smithsonian National Zoo along the western side, you leave the Kid's Farm and wander seeming off to nowhere.  But it's somewhere: a building called Amazonia.

Amazonia was built in two phases.  The Giant Amazon Rainforest complete with massive tanks that can be view from the ground floor like humongous aquariums, and from the second level as a river flowing through a jungle completely with a waterfall, lush flora and free-flying birds.  Over the years, both three-towed sloths and Bolivian Titi Monkeys have been kept there.  A couple of years ago, the aging sloth lost its grip and fell.  Fortunately, she was not injured, but since that happened, they've not let primates or other arboreal mammals loose within the space.  This section opened in 1992.  

In 1996, the edition that includes a model of an amphibian research and breeding lab, along with some fascinating related artifacts from the Smithsonian's unparalleled collection of stuff.  There's even an alcove area featuring large aquariums dedicated to rare and endangered species of Sea Coral.  The overall design gives you a feeling that you are a guest at some "Fazenda suntuosa" where gentle ceiling fans spin and high ceilings keep you cool from tropical heat and humidity outside.  

As I approached the entrance, I noticed a couple I had spoken to a few moments before looking hesitant, and half a dozen or so others mingling as if waiting for something to happen.  I wondered whether or not the facility was open.  A dapper older man was sitting on a bench closest to me.  I smiled and approached him.  When I start to talk he raised his shoulders and turned his hands fingers extended and palms up and said, "I no language." while gentle shaking his head back and forth.  Now I don't know if my Spanish is shit or not, but for some reason I am just trusting what little I know in situations like this.

I said, "Lo siento, Senor.  Es esta edificio abierto?"  

His eyes lit up and he replied, "Si, si, si..."

I replied, "Muchas gracias, mi amigo."

Then I approached the couple I had previously spoken to (Kim and Theresa Mary) who looked confused and said, "It's open.  We can go in."  And we did.

The very first thing you encounter is a pool full of Amazon River Manta Rays with giant trees covered in jungle flora rising up and out of sight into another cavernous level.  Besides the River Rays there are often birds, including the resident Roseate Spoonbill who is quite the Diva!

These gentle animals have this uncanny "smiley face" mouth and nostrils which you can see when they swim up and press themselves against the glass while foraging for algae.  

Proceeding and you enter a world full of fresh water river behemoths. 

 

Also some usual suspects like this school of Red-bellied Piranhas.

There are also plenty of mid-size fish like this adolescent Turquoise Severum, over-swimming a school of Silver Dollars.

Or this Banded Leporinus enjoying a brunch of romaine lettuce!  Who knew?

And if you don't know, don't worry.  Just consult the beautifully illustrated images of the fish.