Monday, August 17, 2026

Smithsonian National Zoo: American Trail

As far back as the late 1800's when the National Zoo set up shop at its current location, a pathway was established along the western flank of the park.  The main pathway was designed by Frederick Law Olmsted, the father of Urban communal landscape design with nothing short of Central Park in New York City on the top of his resume!  President Grover Cleveland signed the law establishing a "National Zoological Park" in Washington, DC to be located on 163 acres along a steeply sloping ridge above an oxbow curve on Rock Creek.  While the growing city bloomed on the plateau above, Frederick and his crew set about laying the foundation for the zoo. 

1910 Map of the National Zoo
from the National Archives

Zooming in on "Beaver Valley": 10 = Wolves, 8 = Bears,
9 = Sea Lions, and 13 = Beavers


The turn around was stunning, and less than two years later the initial thoroughfare of the zoo opened to the public in 1891.  Just west of the main promenade lay an even steeper slice down the backside of the hillside formed by a smaller creek, more like a seasonal run.  Paths were added and this area was christened Beaver Valley.  The year was 1898.  By 1910, it was well peppered with cages and enclosures of various sizes--none large by today's standards, and guests could encounter a range of North American fauna their over the years and decades that followed.  The 1910 map of the park indicates Bears, Wolves, Beavers and Sea Lions; and descriptions from other sources indicate that Elk, Puma, Bobcats, Prairie Dogs, a range of raptors, North American River Otters, and such called the place home. 

As time wore on, incremental changes were made mostly to repair existing infrastructure.  In the 1930 WPA era the area noted as home to wolves was replaced by a series of more naturalistic habitats with faux stone-like concrete walls and "cave" entrances to off-view holding areas, and moats to ensure the public could see the animals without bars.  An innovation first introduced in Hamburg, Germany in 1880's.  The wolves were replaced with Bears and Puma.  in 1976! what a long time to wait, a functional storm water system was retrofitted into the valley.  And just over 30 later, the Zoo green-lighted an ambitious redesign of the entire valley from just north of the WPA habitats to the very top which leads to a plaza on the edge of the Asian Elephant's largest yard.

The Price tag was an astonishing $41,000,000.00 and the timeline was 5 years.  The result, and they're still making up-grades on some of the smaller habitats; the largest and most amazing Sea Lion/Seal habitat I've ever seen.  The main tank with wave action mechanisms holds over 300,000 gallons of water, and the adjoining habitat holds about 180,000 gallons.  Generous natural water features enhance both the Beaver and North American Otter habitats.  An expanded woodland habitat is home to wolves again.  And there are a range of iconic fowl from Ravens, American Bald Eagles to Owls and lesser raptors with the inhabitants changing over time depending upon conservation needs and opportunities.

Perhaps the most interesting aspect is the fact that the entire renovation was built to LEED (Leadership in Energy and Environmental Design) standards; state-of-the-art materials and functions that account for everything from sustainably sourced elements to embedded recycling and reusable practices.  Also, in optimizing the pathway they were able to transform a crazy incline into a more manageable meander.

CALIFORNIA SEA LIONS & GRAY SEALS

The first thing you encounter is a "cave".  Inside you view the California Sea Lions from underwater.  Above is an amphitheater from which you can experience Keeper Talks. 

To see them "fly" through the water you need only be patient and quick.

Quick because they are in constant zoomies modality.

As fate and timing would have it, three keepers were engaged in a chat with lots of amazing demonstrations.

The grandstand was full, so I retreated to the far end of the habitat were there is an underwater viewing area.

Patient...

...and, Quick!

In the adjacent habitat, the Gray Seals were soaking up the rays.

And demonstrating a little tender nuzzle to nuzzle communications.

BEAVERS & NORTH AMERICAN RIVER OTTERS
The Beaver habitat is also the largest I've ever seen at a zoo.  It consists of two pools with a faux dam in between.  

Initially you are at the lower pool, but you can walk up and around to the backside for a wonderful view of the upper pool.  And that's where the Beaver was today!



A little further along that upper path and you're looking down into the North American Otter habitat.  Generous of land area, but less so of aquatic.  It's not horrible, but no North American Otter habitat I've ever seen compares to the one at the Maryland Zoo.  I miss it.

The pair were both out and very active doing laps in the pool and investigating their dry land digs.  

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